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Author Waynder Date Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:30 pm Views 9420
Description How to fix broken plastics, patch holes, paint...
Category Exterial modifications for stunting Type Structure Modifications
Rating No votes [Rate Article]
Plastic Body Work

Let me first start by introducing the products that I use. I used a brand called SEM. There are several brands on the market for plastic body work, but SEM and FUSOR products tend to have good results from what I have read. I actually wanted to get FUSOR products, but I was unable to find them any where near me.

The products that I purchased are the - Plastic Welder - Plastic Prep - and the - Plastic Filler - . Along with the cocking type gun you need to press out the epoxies.



You have to start with sanding the area around where you are going to put any glue (plastic welding), and the filler.

This is what the holes and the back up pieces look like after they are sanded.

The next step is to use the plastic prep solution. This is basically a cleaner that takes any impurities out of the plastics surface and promotes adhesion to the plastic. After the plastic is wiped down with the prep solution, you are ready to start applying glue and/or filler.



I started by taking the glue (plastic welder) and placed it all around the holes. Then I took my grey pieces and pressed them into the glue. After I pressed them in, I covered the edges with even more glue.

This is what it look like after the back up pieces had been glued on.



The epoxy cures very quickly. It only takes about 5 minutes from the time it is mixed until it is fully cured.

Here is what the holes look like from the front. At this point I am now ready to fill these holes with the filler epoxy



After the filler is mixed, just place big gobs of the stuff over the areas you want filled. It is really easy to sand down, so don't worry about putting too much on.

This is what it looks like after the holes are filled in with the filler.



Now you have to sand the excess down so that it is flat and smooth with the rest of the body panel.

Here is what the holes look like after they have been sanded smooth with the body panel: (You can also see in this picture what I did where I removed the mud flap and made the 2 pieces one.)



Here is another picture taken from the side. Here you can really see what I have done with the 2 separate pieces and removal of the mud flap.



Well it looks pretty ugly huh? Now it is time for some paint... I have been using KRYLON'S new FUSION paint... It is made so that it molecularly adheres to plastics without having to sand prior to painting, and no sanding after painting is required. I used the SEM plastic prep and wiped down all the surface I was planning to paint just in case.



Here is what it looks like after it has been painted. I have to say I am very happy with Krylon's Fusion paint. It adheres to the plastic very well, seems to be very tough, holds up well and it has an awesome glossy finish. One of the only drawbacks I have found is that it isn't chemical resistant at all. You get any gas on it and it bubbles the paint.



Here is another picture from the side. From start to finish, it took me about a week to do. But now I have a completely customized faring for my scoot that looks 10X better than the stock faring with that ugly mud flap.


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Very special thanx to Scoot N Fast for let me using his article. Visit his site on www.scootnfast.com
  
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